Hoi An is the tailor capital of Vietnam if not SE Asia. It is renowned as a place to get clothes made to fit whether its a dress for the girls or a suit for the guys. You can get pretty much anything made up for you but these are the pieces that the shops live off. On the bus from Hue I met a Scottish guy I had got chatting to on the Ha Long Bay tour, called Johnny so we stuck together in finding a hostel. We found a cheap dorm and soon were wandering around the town. Hoi An is a small town where the centre is a no go area for cars. This is because the buildings are protected by UNESCO and the streets are too narrow for that kind of traffic. Motorbikes and bicycles still have access though but mostly people walk around. On our wanders we saw a hell of a lot of tailors and later discovered there are more than 300 in the town. Almost every second shop is a tailor I really cant see how they make that much money. We also discovered in the 'eating and drinking area' there are some nice restaurants where you can get a glass of fresh beer for 4000vnd (1 euro=25000vnd). The town was quiet so most places are falling over themselves to get you in the doors and we found a nice spot for dinner that gave us a free drink and free dessert along with our meals. Then we bumped into one of the best PR people ive met in the form of a Vietnamese guy handing out flyers for a bar which promised a free whiskey on arrival and 2 for 1 afterwards. We were informed that there had been at least 200 people in the bar last night and he was working to replicate that. He didnt quite manage it but he did manage to find a few people I had met in Hue and bring them to the bar so we had a good night anyway.
The next day Johnny and myself paid a visit to one of the many tailors as he had designs on getting a hoody made up. He was heading for cooler climes next and had nothing for cold weather. I thought I might be tempted to get a shirt or two made up and I ended up getting fitted for a suit as well. They are pretty good salespeople in these shops so be careful! We bumped into Mitch and rented some bikes. On these we cycled to the nearby beach for the afternoon. The beach was really quiet as there weren’t many tourists in Hoi An at the time (its low season after all) and during the day the locals wont go near it for fear of getting a bit of sun. So we relaxed there for an hour or two and then around 4 the locals began to arrive. The ones that did were there in long sleeve tops and jeans and jumping in the water like that. But they did bring with them the mobile kitchens. These were basically stoves that set up all along the beach and dish out fresh seafood and rice. So we had a few beers and ordered food then watched it being cooked right there in front of us. It’s a hard life lounging on a beach for the better part of the day then having someone come to you and offer to cook some food for you! Afterwards we cycled back, showered and changed and went out. Another good meal and a few more drinks in our bar from last night rounded off the day well.
The 3 of us rise late the next day (what’s the rush?) and go to check on our clothes. It all looks fab but needs an adjustment or two so we arrange to get them tomorrow. Then a dutch guy called Bauka joins us for our journey to the beach and we introduce him to the wonderful beach kitchens. Him and Mitch are heading for Nha Trang that evening but me and Johnny hang around for our clothes the following morning. I get my suit and two shirts and he gets his hoody. I then head for the post office so I can send it home to Ireland and in total I spent less than 130 euros I reckon between the clothes themselves and the postage. Try finding that kind of deal in Ireland! I book my bus ticket for the following day also. That night was quiet since we had been a bit heavy handed the previous three and it was followed by another lazy day at the beach. Hoi An was more than I expected and it was great to just laze about on the beach, it really made it feel like a holiday. Next stop is party central in the form of Nha Trang where things promise to be a bit more hectic so I’ll be glad of the quiet times I think.